“Top Chef” last won an Emmy in the contest category in 2010 (it won a montage Emmy in 2008), but it’s been barred from wins for too many years.
Until “RuPaul’s Drag Race” took over the reality competition category, trophies went to the most famous — albeit well-crafted — options rather than the best shows.
Now, the reality competition is, well, super competitive. Last year’s winner, “Lizzo’s Watch Out for the Big Grrrls,” was a powerful and upbeat series that captured the mood of America, while nominees such as “Nailed It!” and perennial nominees “The Voice,” “The Amazing Race,” and “RuPaul’s Drag Race” oust dignitaries such as “Making the Cut,” “Next in Fashion,” “American Ninja Warrior,” “Dancing With the Stars,” “America’s Got Talent” and any number of cooking series by Gordon Ramsay. (Incidentally, many Food Network series also fail to cut.)
However, “Top Chef” has consistently pulled “cheftestants” from the cream of the crop of the restaurant scene. From Season 1 onwards, it was instantly credible in the food world and took full advantage of having one of the best chefs in America – Tom Colicchio – on board. That credibility, and the refusal to cast its contestants in traditional, cartoonish reality show roles — villains, heroes — elevated the series, making it more intellectually stimulating.
Each season is a cooking masterclass for the amateurs, and let’s face it, the professionals watch from home.
“Top Chef” also pioneered inclusive casting. Gays, straights, BIPOC, and everyone in between who could fend for themselves in the kitchen found a place on the show. That inclusiveness was reflected in food choices and preparation: chefs from different backgrounds shared their stories, cooking techniques and flavors and educated the audience.
The show also never spoke to its viewers, instead inspiring audiences to try techniques from the series. In fact, “Top Chef” cookbooks are bestsellers, and the show has helped raise awareness for the worthy contestants and their restaurants across the country.
And like any great format, it has been exported all over the world.
Which brings us to the current season, the 20th of the series, an international affair built around an all-star format. The contestants are chosen from winners and near-winners from around the world, and it’s set in the food capital of the world, London.
We learn about the backstories of the chefs, about how hard it is to be queer in some of their countries, about discrimination finalist Victoire Gouloubi, an immigrant from the war-torn Republic of the Congo, who is making it in her adopted country, and the challenges and achievements of each cook.
The instructive moments go beyond the personal stories of the chefs. Each Quickfire Challenge is built to reflect an aspect of a local food tradition, while Elimination Challenges work on local concerns about sustainability and other global issues.
But that’s not to say that this show isn’t fun and enjoyable to watch. Chefs tend to be big personalities, so they tend to easily fill the screen. They also provide commentary as they cook, and the direct-to-camera confessionals always provide interesting tidbits about the art and science of cooking.
And while there’s the necessary amount of drama – it’s a TV show, after all – it never dips to the level of other popular Bravo franchises. This season will be beloved host Padma Lakshmi’s last — she’s never won a host Emmy despite 13 noms — another reason for voters to reward this show that brings cultures together over food.